Travel to Lapland but stay far from the madding crowds, and be immersed in the raw power of the arctic winter, while swaddled in luxury.
Set on the shores of Lake Norvajärvi, just outside Rovaniemi, in Finland, Skýra Retreat is an exclusive new destination in Santa country.
But there isn’t an elf in sight.
Situated on the Arctic Circle, by the still waters of Lake Norvajarvi, about 20 kilometres from Santa’s hometown, Rovaniemi, the resort is formed around a restored 1950s schoolhouse.
It offers an escape from the consumerism of Christmas and a chance to commune with nature in its pure state.
Think powder-fine snow, pure air and Arctic water on tap.
The 15-room property is boutique in size. Surrounded by forest, it offers a window onto the Arctic experience, all the while swaddled in luxury.
At this time of the year, expect a soft sense of calm with the landscape blanketed in snow.
Its unique sense of place has been recognised as the first Finnish property to join the prestigious Small Luxury Hotels of the World collection.
This ensures a superior sense of hospitality and décor. The beds are all made locally by Sänkytehdas, and the bed linen is also woven in Finland.
The grand suites, housed in the historic schoolhouse, feature hand-restored log walls, private saunas, deep freestanding bathtubs and Woodio design sinks, a Finnish wood-composite design brand.
Each suite is finished with bespoke details and includes a champagne button, a contemporary take on the old butler’s bell, one to call for spontaneous indulgence.
There are eight private cabins, or log suites, each with its own sauna.
You can see the Pilke signature light, designed by Royal College of Art–trained Finnish designer Tuukka Halonen, here.
By the water is a three-bedroom lakeside villa, and there are two two-bedroom suites in the schoolhouse. All will accommodate families for a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
But in a way, this might be a more enjoyable experience if you leave the kids at home.
Founder Susanne Hulbekkmo has decades of experience in the tourism industry, including leadership roles at Santa’s Hotels and, most recently, at Lapland Luxury, a company that specialises in tailoring experiences of this wilderness to clients' specific requests.
Bespoke activities can be organised.
These range from morning yoga to forest bathing. The more adventurous can try snowmobiling or take a reindeer safari.
Finland is the home of the sauna, considered a sacred experience in its culture, and no visit here would be complete without immersing yourself in it.
Be sure to book a private folklore sauna and let it take you through the traditional incantations, the ritual of greeting the löyly (the Finnish word for steam), and ancient practices such as birch-whisking that create a meditative experience.
This is followed by a mind-awakening cold plunge, all conducted under a guide’s supervision.
The Nordic Spa at Skýra Retreat is an open-air sanctuary inspired by the Finnish thermal cycle of heat, followed by cold, then rest, and repeat.
It includes panoramic saunas and heated outdoor Jacuzzis, as well as cold plunges and wild lake swims – all available when the ice thaws.
A must-try is the ice hole on Lake Norvajärvi that is accessible to all guests via the spa during its opening hours. It forms part of its Nordic thermal therapy experience.
Sound-based therapies and aromatic massages using essential oils ranging from meadowsweet to sweetgrass, lemon balm, calendula, lavender and rose, offer encounters that are deeply sensory and grounding.
The Finnish skincare brand Purodoré is a feature of many of the treatments and is also in the rooms, as are Finnish natural soap, shampoo and body wash company Osmia's products.
The look and feel of the place takes its lead from the mid-century age of the schoolhouse.
Marjo Saarinen, owner of local interior design firm Design Saarinen, has put together a nuanced colour palette, with tactile soft furnishings and crisp bedding.
The large picture windows and contemporary cabins were designed by UKI Arkkitehdit - one of Finland’s foremost practices.
The menu is Nordic-influenced, served with French flair.
Afternoon pullakahvit, which is coffee and pastries, Finnish style, is essential.
There may be reindeer on the three-course dinner menu, too. Just don’t ever tell the kids.
And if the weather gods are feeling generous, you may also get to experience the sky show that is the northern lights, all from the pleasure of a heated hot tub, if you fancy it.
There are also viewing decks outside most of the cabins where you can sit on warming reindeer pelts, with a fire pit for additional heat and wait for the sky to reveal its magic.
As bragging rights and photo opportunities go, it doesn’t get much better than this.
A two-night grand opening celebration price at Skýra Retreat starts from €2,840 per person until December 15th. KLM flies from Dublin to Rovaniemi via Amsterdam with one-way journeys starting from about €250 per person. Ryanair flies from Shannon and Dublin, and Finnair flies from Dublin. Month-long stays are also available to book.
